Seamless-fashioned stocking and process of knitting and fashioning the same.



w. E. SMITH. v SEAMLESS FASHIONED STOCKiNG AND PROCESS OF KNITTINE AND FASHIDNING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED MAB. 9, 19144 J Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

1 order to' produce a claims.

UNITED sTA rn s rs r*nn T onm'on.

WILLIAM E. SMITH, OF MILLTOVN NE'KV JERSEY, ASSIGNOR T0 KILIIOUBN MANUFAC- TUBING CORPORATION, OF NEVJ BRUNSKVIGK, NEW RF A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEAMLESS-FASHIONED S TOCKING AND PROCESS OF KNITTINC- AND FASHIONING THE SAhiE.

ting and Fashioning the Same; and I do hereby declare the following'to be a full, clear, and exact descriptionrof the inven tion, 'such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it a-ppertains to make and iise the'same. I My invention consists'in the novel features hereinafter described, reference being lied to the accompanying drawing which illustratesdiagrammatically one embodiment of my invention selected 'by me for purposes -:of illustration, andsaid in've'ntion is fully disclosed in the following description and In theiaccompanying drawing, the figure represents diagrammatically a fashioned seamlesshalf hose embodying my invention.

In the knitting of seamless hosiery, the pon a circular series of produced by ordinary or plain knitting ofthe needles of the ciICLF lar series, necessarily results in a tube which is not adapted to-fit the human foot. In

seamless stocking which shall approximately have the form of the human foot, it has been customary toknit as excrescences on the tubular fabric thefheel and toe pocket-s by stopping a portion of the needles, to-wit, those Wliich'knit the front portion of the stocking, and knitting by reciprocating-work :i-nd narrowing and widen ing to produce these heel and toe pockets at opposite ends "of thelfoot portiom'the leg 'and foot portions of the stocking being of tubular 'form. Owing to thecharacter of the machinery employed in th'e knitting of seamless stockings, great restrictions are placed upon any ,variations from tubular fabrican'd for many years this class of. stockiug has been formed with the thbular leg and foot portions and the narrowed and? widened toepockrts, as above indicated." When stockings are so made they do not aecura-tely fit'the foot, but are ironed upon boards so as to give them whatmight be. termed selling shape Which stretches the the foot and the, ank

W Specification of Letters Iatent.

Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

Application filed March 9, 1914. Serial No. 823,361.

stocking into a shape morenearly approximating that of the liuman foot. This board ing or shaping of the stocking, however, is purely artificial a: d has no relation to the structure of the fabric and it is therefore immediately lost when the stocking is laundried.

Atthe present time the demands of the trade require that the leg and top portion of the foot of the stocking shall be a fine closely knit fabric and the trade is demand ing constantly a liner and finer web in the leg and top of the foot. Inordcr to make thewearing qualities of the stocking satisfactory, it has beer customary to reinforce, the heel and toe and bottom of the foot with an additional thread, or to knit such portions of a heavier thread, and the efl'ect of such reinforcing is ordinarily performed, tends 'to shorten as well as thickenthe portions so reinforced 5 nd make them less elastic than the non-re of the foot and at stockings are laundricd the heavier or'reinforccd portions trnd to contract and become less elastic anl Shorter. follows that in most seamless stockings stifficient room is not ail'orded along the bottom of the foot and as the top portion of the foot is more elastic, there results 3, draw,

nforced portion on top It therefore the leg, and when such around the heel and toe of-the stocking,

which tends to drag down the highspliced portion above the heel and to draw the toe oining on the top or the foot Where thetoe pocket is' looped or joined to the edge. of the] top of the foot forward over thetoes, and the result is that it} the wearer; selects a} stocking which is suiliciently long: at the bottom of the foot 1 ing is too loose and sugs and wrinkles while, if a stocking is seected. which: is small enough and fits snugly'at the top of the foot and around the ankle, it is entirely too short around the "bottom. .hese objectionable features are exaggerated when the stockings are laundried. i

It is a fact that in order to make a seamless stocking to fit tic foot of the wearer properly, .it "should be sufliciently 1 along the bottom top of the foot to make the bottom portion" of the foot from ahalf size tofasize longer,

or comfort., the top of e portion of the stock- I onger of "he foot than over the smoothly and evenly stretched over the in- 4 spreading of the' wales.

, manent structure knitting down to the 'line a-bc, formed. If

less elastic than the top of the foot, will extend preferably a little beyond the union:

between the toe pocket and the top portion of the-foot so as to relievethe sole portion of the foot from longitudinal strain and perm'it the top portion of the foot to he step and top of the foot without undue My present invention consists in fashioning the stocking in.the process of knitting the same so aS to effect this result which enters into the perof the stocking and is not affected bysubsequent laundrying of the same, and my invention covers the new stockingstructure so produced. I

In carrying out my invention, reference being had to the figure of drawing, which shows a half hose or mens stocking embodying my invention, 1 represents the ordinary top portion of the stocking. which may be the usual ribbed top, and 2 represents the leg portion of the stocking, which is pref-' erabl'y knit with a fine. thread by circular point indicated by the where the heel pocket is to be desired, the rear portion of the le above the heel may be knit as a heavier fa r'ic. either by means of a reinforcing thread or by knitting this portion of the with a heavier thread, to formwhat is termed the high splice, indicated at 9-".

,hen the circular course,indica-ted at webc isfreached, the front needles will be thrown o 'i'tof operation in the usual manner and the portion 3 ofthe heel will be knit by reciprocating work and narrowing, until the narrowest course of reciprocating work, indicated by the line fe is reached. These courses I term the main narrowing courses as they are .the normal narrowing courses of the heel. The narrowing will beeflected in the .usual manner by throwing out of operation, alternately, needles at opposite sides of :the machine. The fabric is then widened by a series ofreciprocating courses which I term the first part of the main wideni 1 courses less in number and preferably an stantially half the number of the main narrowing courses, until the point indicated by the line bdd is reached, when the fabric is again narrowed and a series of ad- .ditional narrowing courses substantially equal in number to the previously made main widened courses are knit by recirccatingcwork until the fabric is narrowe as indicated at h, to the same extent as at the narrowing course indicated at f-e. The fabric is then widened until all of the needles of the rear half of the fabric have been brought into operation. This may be done in several ways, but I prefer that in'knitting the first widened course after the course }L to'throw into operation simultaneously all of the needles from the point 9 to the point (Z at each side of the fabric so as to knit the firstwidened course from the point /2/- to the point (1 thus making it equal in length to the last preceding main widening course at d Z and successive widened courses thereafter in the usual manner, by'

alternately bringing into operationone needle at each end of the reciprocating courses until the course Zb is reached, when all of the needlespreviously thrown out of operation have been restored to operative position so that the course l7)-c represents a continuous circular course. The widening courses between lines kd and Z-b I term, the second part of the main widening courses, as it will be seen that the first and second parts of the main widening courses constitute the samequantity of fabric as would be produced by the normal number of'widening courses knit inthe usual man ner and that the additional narrowing coursescomprised betweenlines (Z'.(Z and hd constitute the inserted portion of fabric which has its 'main width at the bottom of the foot and forward of the exterior heel point e,'so thatit greatly lengthens the bottom of the foot of thestocking, making it in fact a size or more larger than the top of the stocking without materially increasing the size ofthe heel. In fact, this invention 'isto be clearly distinguished from prior inventions which sought to produce an enlarged heel pocket by making insert-ions above and below the heel pocket or at a number of points throughout the heel for the urpose of swelling out the heel of the stoc ng, as the object of my invention is notto increase the size of the heel, but to increase the length of the bottom of the foot; make it a size longer than the correwhich comprises the latter being preferably knit the toe pocket to the In knitting the heel of the-stocking in the manner hereinbefore described, the heel pocket instead of pomprising as heretofore, a narrowed ,portion and a widened portion, will comprise a. narrowed portion 3, the

small widened portion 3", another'narrowed portion 3 of substantially the same size as the widened portion 3', and the widened portion 3". 'The effect of this is to insert or'half hose is illustrated, and that reting, it is obvious that a saving in cost of manufacture is effected as a number of courses, say for example,- thi'rty courses, are altogether omitted from the top of the foot which is knit with more expensive yarn. This effects a very considerable saving in the manufacture of stockings in large quantities, andespecially inthe manufacture of lisle thread and silk stockings, in which the leg and top .of the foot are knit of the more expensive yarn, and the bottom of the foot and the heel and toeare formed of cotton.

Vhat I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:. 4

1-. The herein describedv process of knitting and fashioning a sehmless stocking which consists in the knitting of the heel by IGClPIOt'lltlIlg knitting with a plurality of main narrowlng coursesand a plurality of main WIClGIHIIg'COHl'TSBS, the wldest courses of the heel beings-t the commencement of the narrowing courses andv complet on of the widening courses and extending approximately halfway around the tube and knittinga plurality of additional consecutive inserted reciprocating courses of -varying lengths at one point onlybc twelen adjacent courses of the widened "fabric formed by said main widening courses to make-the bot tom portion of the foot substantially a size longer than the corresponding top portion to fashion the stocking to the foot.

2,-4The herein described process of knittin}; and fashioning a seamless stocking which consists in knitting the heelby'reclprocating. knitting with a plurality of main narrowing courses and a plurality of,

mein widening courses, the widest 'courses of the heel being at the commencement ,of.

the harrowing courses and completion of "the widening courses, and extending ap- E'loximately half way around the tube, anditting a, plurality of additional consecwtlVB narrowing courses, at oneipointonly, between twoof said main ,wid

fining courses,

the widest of said additional courses being of substantially the same-length as the narrowest Ina-in narrowingicourse,to make the bottom portion of the foot. of 'thestockin-g than the top pot substantially, a size longer tiqn, to fashion-the stocking to the foot,

, 3'. The herein described process of knit:

of main 'narrow ng courses b n of less length than the widesbmain courses; :and the narrowest'of saidaddltional courses ting and fashion' I v WhlCll consists in knitting the heel b a seamless st cln'ng, Q f relcipm rocati'ng knitting with'a plurality of mem narrowing courses and a plurality of main.

widening courses, the widest courses of the heel being at the commencement of the netrowing courses and completion of the widening courses, and extending approximately halfway around the tube, and knitting a plurality of additional consecutive narrowing courses at one point only between two of said main widening courses, the widest of said additional narrowing courses being of substantially the same length as the adjacent main widening course, and the narrowest of a tubular fabric,'knitti ng the heel by reciprocating-work by first knitting a, plurality of main narrowing courses, the widest of which is approximately half of the length of the courses of the tubular fabric, then knitting a plurality of main widening courses, then knitting a plurality of additional narrowing courses, and thenknitting a plurality of widening courses to complete the heel, then knitff the footas a tubular fabric and, then knittin the toe pocket, ivherebya segmental ad "tional' option of fabric is inserted in theportion fthe' heel' adjacent to the sole of the stocking tolmake the bottom portion .of the foo}; substantially a size longer then thelcorresponding top portionof the f0ot,to fashion the stocking to the'foot. j r v 5. The herein described pr 'ss' of knitting andfashionin a, sea which consistsi-n kmtting the leg portion. as a. tubular fabric, knittin rocati'ng worlnlhy first nit'ting which is ap r ximately half Ofth length bf the last course ofthe leg, then knittm a smaller number {of widen1ng'courses,ten

th'e'heel by recipa 'plurality' e'rrwidest of 1;; ess stocking,-

knitting a plurality of] additional narrowing courses, and then knittin "course. of substantiully thesnmel'engt asr-the last previousinain widenin and following it with a finality-,f Inain.fwidening courses to com? tion of fabri 'isinsertd in'the heel adjacent to the .exteri'f point thereof tomake' the botv te theiheltheh-knittihg the-foot as afltu' ular-filiri'c'and then knitting the-toe tom of the footsubstantidl-ly a size longer j than" the correspondin top portion of the to'the foot. -6. The hereinjdescri process of knit- 1S approximate name r4 ting and fashionin a seamless stocking, WhlCll consists in knitting the leg portion as a tubular fabric, knitting a plurality of main narrowin courses, the widest of which y half of the length of the last course of the leg, then knitting a smaller number of main widening courses, then knitting a plurality of additional narrowing courses, substantially equal in number to the preceding. number of main widening courses, and then knitting a course of substantially the same length as the last previous main widening course and following it with aplurality of main widening courses to complete the heel, then knitting the foot as a tubular fabric and then knitting the toe pocket, whereby a segmental additional portion of fabric is inserted in the heel forward of the exterior point thereof, to make the foot substantially a size longer than the correspond ing top portion of the foot to fashion the stocking to the foot. y

7. The herein described process ofknitting and fashioning a seamless stocking which cdnsists in knitting the leg portion as a tubular fabric,-then throwing out of opera plurality of ation all the needles tially equal in number portion of the h knitting the front portion of the leg, being approximately one half of the needles, and knitting the heel by re ciprocating courses on the remaining needles, and first gradually narrowing said courses by throwing a needle out of action at each side of the heel, then knitting a plurality of courses and gradually widening by throwing into action a needle at each side of the heel, .then knitting aplurality of courses substanto the number of pre ceding widened courses and narrowingby throwin a needle out of action at each side of the eel, then throwing a plurality of needles simultaneously each side of the heel, and knitting acourse of substantially the length of the last preceding widencdi course, and knitting a pluralitypf courses and widening the same by' throwing a needle into action at each side of the heel, to complete the-heel, then knit-- ting the foot with-a1l the needles-as a tubular fabric, and finally knitting the toe pocket y reciprocating knitting and narrowing widening. 8. A fashioned seamless stocking having a plurality of additional courses of varying length inserted at one point only in that portion onlypf the heel between the normal heel suture and the last widening course of the heelcorresponding with the first course make the bottom of the foot of the heel, to

of the stocking substantially a size longer than the top portion, and fashion the stock- 9. A fashioned-seamless stockinghaving additional courses of vary: mg lengths inserted at one point onlyrin the 1 adjacent to the sole of,

' the stocking,

into operation at branches of the and between two normal widening courses thereof, to make the bottom of the foot of the stockingsubstantially a size long or that. the top portion, and fashion the stc cking to the foot,

10. A fashioned seamless stocking having a heel. composed of a substantially equal number of gradually narrowed andwidened courses and an additional number of grad-- ually narr Wed courses inserted at ofiefpoint only betwc en the point Where the widened courses cor nnence and the point Where the heel unites with the foot of the stocking, to make the bottom of the foot of the stocking of greater length than the top and fashion the stocking to the foot.

11. A fashioned seamless stocking having a heel composed of a number of gradually narrowed :ontiguous courses, a smaller number of contiguous gradually widened courses, adiacent thereto, a substantially equal numb er of contiguous gradually narrowed coumes, and a number of gradually widened contiguous courses, the total I1l1m ber of wide ned courses being substantially equal to t1 .e first mentioned number of gradually narrowed courses, whereby a segmental port .on of fabric is inserted at one point only .n the bottom of the heel" forward of the point where the normal widening courses begin to make the bottom of the foot substantially a size longer than the top of thesto'cki 11g and fashion the stocking to the foot. V

12. A fashioned seamless stocking, provided with a heel composed of a plurality of main nari owing courses, a smaller number of main widening courses, adjacent thereto, a p11 rality of additional narrowin courses adjazent to and forward of sai widening courses being substantially equal in length to the last previous widening course, and the longest being substantially equal in length to stocking is made substantially a sizelonger. than the top to fashion the stocking to the foot.

with Y-shape l side sutures of which the Y are considerably shorter: than the stem Jfthfi Y. Y

mentioned 115 substantially equal in the first course of the heel, whereby the bottom of the foot of the 13. Seamlcsthosiery'having a heel pocket 14. Themet nod of manufacturin sealm' less hosiery w iich consists in knitting. the first part of the heel pocket by a narrowing operationupor the suture nee dles as usual;

the sutilre 1needles; then narrowing again in the presence of two Witnesses. upon t 1e est mentioned suture needles' y then widenin upon all of the suture WILLIAM SMI'IH' then widening upon a limited number of In testimony whereof I aflix my signature 5 needles; the a ove mentioned limitednum- \Vitnessesz' her not exceeding one half of the total num H ARRY C. GEIPEL, ber of the suture. Jncon VAN Rn'rz. 

